Napoli - il giorno cinque **Naples - day five**

On our last day in Naples, we woke up really early since we went to bed rather early as well the night before. We wanted to hit the markets first thing in the morning, and since breakfast was served at 7AM we were up at 6:30AM having gone to bed at an unlikely time of 9:30PM the night before. We had to go down three times just to get our breakfast – at 7AM only to be told by the reception that breakfast was served at 7:30AM; again at 7:30AM only to be told by very grouchy café staff that they weren’t ready till 8AM; finally at 8AM when everything was ready. In between we just passed our time watching He-Man and the Masters of the Universe on TV. In Italian.

Breakfast here was simpler, not as fancy as Grand Hotel Oriente. Only one type of everything - bread, biscuit, tart, juice (orange from concentrate; it wasn’t even freshly squeezed!), ham, cheese, cereal, tea. But praise the Lord, they had cappuccino and Nutella! That was all I needed. Nutella with bread, Nutella with biscuit...

Crossing the road from our hotel, we decided to hit the supermarket first. Needed to buy something for the folks back home, and what better to give than local produce? As usual we just ooh-ed and ah-ed (being the Singaporeans that we are) at all the assortments of hams and cheese at the delicatessen counter, along with all the other merchandise on offer. We ended up with only sweets, chocolates (all the Ferrero stuff, with a dark chocolate version of Rocher!) and other manner of tidbits because everything else was just too damn expensive!

After heading back to our room to lighten our load, we went to the bus stop again (this time knowing full well where to get our bus tickets from!) to make our way towards Via Antonio Ranieri, the Napoli version of Hong Kong’s Temple Street. We got off the bus that travelled along Corso Umberto after spotting some stalls at a little lane off the main road – I still couldn’t figure out where the street signs were and the map didn’t make much sense to me. We followed the lane and, voila, found ourselves right smack in the middle of a horde of stalls peddling shoes, clothes, handbags, sunglasses and other fashion apparel. After circling the whole market, we only managed to find a pair of Converse-esque sneakers for Velouria. Dissatisfied that we still hadn’t satiated our craving for street food, we crossed Corso Umberto to head towards another market around the Via Rafealla Conferti area.

On this side, the market was older skool. The streets were lined with quaint little shops selling bread, groceries and gelato, among other things. The buildings here were older but still retained a certain charm about them. It was like one of those old neighborhoods that you’d see in an old black and white movie with Sophia Loren in it. Out of nowhere there was even an arch – a lovely piece of architecture that you’d least expect to see in an old, ramshackle neighbourhood.

Then, by the grace of God, we finally found one! An inconspicuous, kopitiam style shop in an unassuming corner with a little counter at the front selling pizza by the slice (at €1.50 a pop) and other fried fritters. With the help of a nice Italian lady who was also there buying some stuff to munch, we ordered some mashed potato fritters (something like a croquette) and some corn fritter (we heard the Italian lady say ‘mice’ initially, which had us taken aback for a while, but she actually meant ‘maize’).

Satisfied with our loot, we made our way back to Via Anotnio Ranieri in search of a some running shoes for Penny as her feet were beginning to hurt. Although we didn’t manage to find anything, we did have time to stop by a funny little toy shop – it was almost Halloween so there was plenty of amusing items being merchandised. We ventured further into the neighbourhood as I wanted to search for the Spacconelli - the longest and narrowest straight road in Naples that apparently split the city between the ‘old’ from the the ‘new’. However, after walking around in circles again (the map said we were there but I didn’t see any long, straight road), we decided to call it quits as we needed a toilet break. We ventured down one of the streets that I reckoned would lead us back to Corso Umberto (where we could hop onto another bus) and found an Asian supermarket selling stuff you’d normally find in your neighbourhood Econ mini-mart – Yeo’s Asian Drinks, Lee Kum Kee Oyster Sauce, Lee Chee Seng Sesame Oil, Royal Umbrella Rice, etc. Purchasing a can of herbal tea, we made use of the opportunity to borrow the washroom. Penny (as usual) struck up a conversation with the store owners and we found out they were from China (there they are yet again!).

We continued to make our way towards Corso Umberto again take a bus to the other side of town (we were what was considered the ‘old’ Naples, there was another street market at the ‘new’ Naples). It was a long wait for the bus as every bus which we could take seemed to be packed to the brim! When we finally got on one, it was a huge squeeze and Penny almost died being crushed by all the bigger, taller ang mohs that surrounded her. A change of bus later and we found ourselves at Villa Communale, the huge park by the sea looking out on to the Bay of Naples, where the famous aquarium was (though we never went in). Our stomachs were already rumbling despite the fritters we had earlier, so we decided to head towards our lunch venue first before hitting the street market.

Having had Italian food the past few days, we were craving for a thick slab of juicy steak so we headed to an American joint called Bar-B-Qool. Sources tell us that the American Consulate was in this area, so this was where all the cool restaurants and hang-out joints are since the Italians are so enamoured with all things American.

True enough, the Bar-B-Qool didn’t disappoint. We sat outside since it was such a fine day (but the wind nearly shrank my b***s). The staff spoke really good English, so we indeed got what we ordered (no surprises like the lobster spaghetti here). The appetizer of some chicken wings made with their home-made sauce and our main entrée of a ribeye steak was nothing short of fantastic. To top it all, we had live entertainment in the form of a road accident happening right in front of us (though we didn’t actually see it ‘cos we were so engrossed with our grub) – two scooters had crashed into each other and one rider was flung from his bike and quite badly injured. Interesting thing was, everybody just rushed out to help – passers-by got off their vehicles to help the victims, while others helped to direct traffic; the manager from the restaurant went out as well, with one of his staff bringing water to the victims. If it were to happen in Singapore, people would just stand around waiting for somebody else to do something, while they are copying down 4D numbers instead. Within a minute, the police and ambulance arrived. Impressive!

Satisfied with our lunch, we went off to hunt for our market. We went down the (in my opinion) wrong street where all the luxury boutiques were – Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada, et al. The staff were surprisingly friendly, unlike those in Singapore who would give you that ‘get out if you don’t have money to buy’ kinda look. Yes, true, we didn’t have the moolah to buy anything, we were just there to check out the designs so we could buy the fake ones later. We got lost for quite a bit as, again, I was confused by the map and all the street names. We did pass by some interesting monuments though, like a statue in another piazza and some embassy where security was tight.

We sauntered on and finally stumbled upon the market we were looking for. Unfortunately, it was already quite late so most of the stall holders had already begun packing up. Here, more clothes, bags and other fashion apparel were on offer but looked more fashionable than the ones earlier. Penny almost picked up a bag for €20, but later changed her mind when I concluded it didn’t make sense since she bought her fake Gucci for the same price as well.

Disheartened by the lack of any bargains, we stopped by an espresso bar for some cappuccino to take a break after all the walking (again!). And, wow, was the coffee wonderful. Perhaps it was the chilly air, or maybe it was just the ambience (the very being of in a streetside café in Italy) that made the cappuccino taste exceptionally good! We took a break to take stock of where we were heading for next. First thing we needed was a toilet break – public washrooms are hard to come by (we Singaporeans are so spoilt) - so we decided to walk back to the restaurant we had lunch in earlier (luckily they remembered us, else we would have just peed in our pants) and proceed our walk further back down Via Parthenope by the sea to see Castel Dell’Ovo.

It was beautiful as we strolled by the sea. People were hopping out onto the wave breakers to just chill out and we were tempted to do likewise. But we didn’t have the luxury of time to chill out on rocks so we proceeded on towards the ‘Oval Castle’.

A really long walk later (the entrance to the castle was actually below it near the back so we had to cross a bridge and walk around the side), we finally entered Castel Dell’Ovo and just blur our way around. Somehow or other, we found our way to the top and we did the usual touristy things, taking in the view that the height of the castle provided (we must have been about 15 storeys high – I almost fainted when Penny told me to sit on one of the side walls to take a pic of me with the city in the background), snapping photos of some strategically placed cannons and such. It was quite an amazing sight as the castle was quite huge – with its own streets and all – and it was being refurbished into an office building.

That was the last stop for the day. The next mistake I made was to walk down Via Parthenope to the bus stop to catch the bus back to our hotel. I had misread the map and miscalculated our distance. And, schisse, was it a loooooong walk. We ended up circling the entire seaside before reaching the bus stop when we should have just walked back to where we got off earlier to get on the bus (where the bus would cut through a tunnel to shorten the distance). Quite obviously, I was given an earful by Penny about making her walk miles and miles since our first day and about how her legs were aching. Oops, my bad!

We finally got onto the bus in one piece and got off at Via Medina (where we had our ketok case lobster spaghetti) to walk (again!) back to our hotel. On the way, we passed a street kiosk selling freshly squeezed orange juice (strangely, we never noticed the guy before despite passing this spot on numerous occasions before this). It had a tinge of lemon juice in it too and it was a welcome refreshment to our parched throats after all that walking.

We took a short break in the hotel room to wash and pack up, not knowing what to have for dinner – contrary to what I thought, we were quite tired of having pizza and pasta at every meal. There was a Chinese restaurant across the road but it just seemed so silly having to pay a bomb for what we could normally whip up at home (that meal at the Chinese restaurant in Gold Coast which cost us an arm and a leg came to my mind). We decided to just walk around and walk into the first restaurant that looked enticing to us.

Surprisingly, many restaurants were closed (it was only about 7PM) and the streets were starting wind down. We passed a McDonald’s and saw a poster which featured a Quarter Pounder made with ciabatta bread and Italian cheese, so we thought ‘Hey, why not?’. It may seem silly to be munching on a burger when we were in a city that had so much more to offer, but I had no regrets ordering that burger! The combination of the ciabatta bread with the parmaggiano regianno cheese, along with the thick beef patty, was something extraordinary that you would perhaps only find in Italy. It was a delightful shock to the palates with all the different sensations that the ingredients offered – a tad bland with the bread; the rich savoury taste of the juicy beef patty; the amalgamation of sauces and the light, sourish note of the cheese – which makes me drool just thinking about it.

After the wonderful meal, we took a really slow walk back to the hotel. It was, after all, our last night in Naples. We took the effort to breathe in the chilling night air and remember every sound that the city made. Over the past few days, we had meandered around the city so much that we seemed to know it at the back of our hands (more or less).

We packed our things one last time as we reached our room – our flight was at 6:30AM and we had to be at the airport really early. We were really grateful that God had blessed us with this trip and couldn’t have asked for more. We fell asleep with that thought, grateful that we were blessed enough to be flown halfway round the world into a country that we would have least expected to visit.